Jean maeib claudius chenivesse



(No Model.)

J. M. O. OHENIVESSE.

PATTERN FOR UNDER GARMENTS.

N0. 297,570. Patented Apr. 29, 1884.

: iw/mz aw WaZ /W/Q' ITE JEAN MARIE GLAUDIUS CHENIVESSE, BOUBG ST. ANDEOL, FRANCE.

PATTERN F OR UNDER-=GARIVI ENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 297,570, dated April 29, 1884:.

Application filed July 5, 1883.

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J EAN MARIE CLAUDIUS OHENIVEssE, a citizen of the French Republic, and a resident of Bourg St. Andol, in the French Republic, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Patterns for Under-Garments, (for which I have obtained Letters Patent in France under date of December 28, 1882, No. 152,913 and I do hereby declare thefollowing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to improvements in patterns for underwear; and it consists in the construction and arrangements of such patterns, substantially as hereinafter fully described.

The object of this invention is to so construct a pattern more particularly adapted for cutting out flannel or other undershirts as to adapt it for use with several styles of cut, and whereby patterns of any desired measurement can be made or undershirts of any 'desired measurement cut thereby.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 shows the pattern for the undershirt, and Fig. 2 the pattern for the sleeves.

By means of the patterns shown in the drawings the following styles of undershirt can be made: first, undershirt (with or without sleeves) buttoning in a straight line along the middle of the breast; second, undershirt (with or without sleeves) buttoning upon a curved line upon the right side of the shirt; third, single-breasted undershirt (with or without sleeves) buttoning on astraight line along the center of the breast, or buttoning on a curved line on the right of the shirt; fourth, double breasted undershirt (with or without sleeves) buttoning on a straight line along the center of the breast, or on a curved line along the right of the shirt; and, lastly, an undershirt having any one of the above forms with a slit-fold in the back.

The absolute certainty of lines of cut and seaming or mounting of these patterns enables almost any oneto obtain aperfect fit, and in (No model.) Patented in France December 28, 1852, No.15-2,913.

large establishments high-salaried cutters may be dispensed with, while the seamstress need not be specially trained to this particular work.

In practice Ipreferably make these patterns in sets of sixteen each. For the undershirt and sleeves, the lines upon which the goods are cut, as well as the lines of seams, are made by perforations, and the pattern is transferred to goods by the usual methods of dusting or otherwise forcing a coloring-powder through the perforations. Each of the sixteen patterns for the shirt bears a number, those for the sleeves a corresponding number, and the former bear the usual indications of measurement from ninety-nine centimeters to'one hundred and forty-four centimeters, (measurement around the body under the armpits,) the size increas ing in arithmetical progression by five centimeters. By this arrangement one measurement around the body of a person, under the armpits, is sufficient to Obtain a perfect fit. These patterns also indicate,besides the measurement around thebody, under the the armpits, the length and width of material required, the length of material for the sleeve-bands, and the material for the sleeves. These various sets of patterns are identical in their general outlines, and vary only in dimensions. The object of providing sixteen of these for each set is to avoid the trouble of enlarging or contracting a pattern of given dimensions, and more particularly adapted for manufacturers, as it is evident that individuals may readily obtaina As shown in Fig. 1, the pattern is composed of the lines of cutthat is to say, the lines on which the material is to be cut are indicated byAB, BO, 0, D, DE, EF,FGH,HI, I JK,KL,LMN,N 0,0 P Q, QRS, SA, C IV, D V, J U, and P T, and also of the bands .1, 2, 3, and 4, within which lines are.

parallel lines indicating the line of seams.

The sleeve-pattern, Fig. 2, is formed by the curved lines A B O, F G, and K L E, and

by the straight lines o n, E r, G H, H K,

and I A, upon which the material is cut, said pattern having also lines indicating the lines of seams and tucks or plaits, as shown,

To cut out the goods for the various styles of undershirts, with or without sleeves, from the above pattern or patterns, I proceed as follows:

The dimension of chest above referred to having been ascertained, and the proper pattern selected, and the material spread smoothly upon a table, I, place the pattern on the goods. If it is to be an undershirt buttoning on a straightline along the center of the chest, onehalf of the pattern only is transferred, and upon the lines A B G D E F G H I J U A and C \V, as well as the armhole-band 1,. Fig. 1. By doubling the goods on line J U and cutting the two thicknesses upon those lines, the'complete undershirtpattern is obtained. done, it will only be necessary to transfer the armhole and neckbands Z'and 8', Fig. 1, cut them out, and the shirt is ready for sewing.

When it is desired to cut an undershirt buttoning on a curved line at the right of the shirt, the entire pattern is transferred to the goods, excepting those lines indicated by B G D, G V, B A, J U, and P T. The other forms, being derived from the above, need no further explanation, as they differ only in the application of a single or double breast. gle breasted undershirt, one-half of the breast piece is transferred on lines P Q and Q R S; then by doubling the goods on line I? T and cutting out the single breast. The double breast is the same as the single breast, except that a band or strip, 4, Fig. 1, is sewed on the right and left of the single breast.

The sleeves are obtained from a pattern, Fig 2, of the proper sizethat is to say, of a size corresponding with that of the shirt-pattern. The lines D E I F G K H D form the sleeve-facing, and A B C the line of attachment to the shirt, the two sleeves and their facings being obtained by simply reversing the pattern for one of said sleeves.

This

For a sin- Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is-

1. The herein-described pattern for undergarments having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforations A B ODEFGH IJKLMNO P Q R S T U VVV, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

' 2. Theherein-described under-garment having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforations A BCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTU V V, and, in combination therewith, of the the bands 1, 2, and 3, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

3. The herein-described pattern for undergarments having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforationsABOODEFGHIJKLMNO P Q R B S T U V W, and, in combination therewith, of the bands 1 2 3 4, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

4. The herein-described sleeve-pattern having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforations A B C I) E F t H I L, substantially as described.

Y 5. In combination with the sleeve-pattern having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforations A B C D E F G H I K L, the shirtpattern having the configurations shown and described, and provided with the lines of perforationsA B ODEF'GHI JKLMNO P Q R, S T U V W, substantially as described,

' for the purposes specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I v JEAN MARIE CLAUDIUS CliENlVESSE.

XVi tnesses:

LOUIS COUSSAINT, FREDERIO MATRAY. 

